- #BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING GENERATOR#
- #BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING MANUAL#
- #BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING PLUS#
With the alternator wired to the starting bank, that problem went away. this was knocking out the inverter which has an input limit of 15 v. Alternator output was peaking at about 15.2 v until the ACR connected the banks.
I’d planned on wiring the alternator to the house batteries, but I found the alternator output feedback is through the OEM wiring to the starting batteries. Any time the alternator is pushing more than 120 amps, a large chunk of it is recharging the starting batteries (which doesn’t go through the relay). The house batteries usually only draw about 100 amps peak. It’s rated to handle 215 amps for 5 minutes. The weight would be the same and I could run the engine for a bit if I needed power to run the AC.Ĭlick to expand.I’m using a Blue Sea 7610. I would probably be happier with a big alternator, 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter, and four 6 Volt batteries.
#BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING GENERATOR#
I have a 2.8 kW generator under the new van which weighs about 130 pounds installed. That is a recipe for boiled batteries if not programmed properly. Be careful when you set the final stage voltage if you draw power from the batteries at the same time as you charge them. You really need to pick a charger that has at least 3 stages, has a battery temperature sensor, adjusts voltage based on technology, and is quiet. I ended up removing the original 6 amp battery charger the DC panel had built into it because it would take too long to restore the batteries and it did not have any intelligence. Those batteries were happy to suck up all the power the alternator could put out. I never lacked power with that system except when I let it get too low and wasn't able to charge it with the alternator (tripped breaker issue).
#BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING PLUS#
My other van had two Trojan T-105 Plus batteries, a 25/50 amp charger, and a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter. The 6 Volt batteries and a good charger are a whole other story. This may be handy if I put in a 2nd alternator or swap the one I've got with a 300 amp job.
#BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING MANUAL#
I've tried to illustrate this in the chicken scratch drawing attached to the post - the upper battery being the main battery, the lower battery the auxiliary, the left relay being the heavy-duty isolator, the left switch being a manual override, the right switch representing the ignition-controlled circuits that also provide power to other circuit devices, and the heavily scribbled line showing the effect of closing the manual override switch energizing the trigger post of the heavy-duty isolator, and also energizing the line connecting the isolator to one of the secondary posts of the smaller relay, but not continuing on to the 'other circuits' connected to the ignition-switched circuit.Bikesmurf: Which VSR are you using? It seems that you've got quite a bit more current passing through it than I've seen available. This would allow me to wire a second manual switch in parallel to the smaller relay, which when closed would not energize the other devices on the 12v vehicle running circuit. What I thought would solve this problem was to use a second, smaller relay which would use the 12v vehicle running line as a trigger, and would have the secondary side connecting the main battery to the 12v trigger post of the isolator. Then I realized that doing so would also energize the 12v line that's normally on when the vehicle is running, possibly providing power to other devices on the same circuit. At first I thought I could simply wire a switch in parallel to the existing trigger, that would connect the main battery to the 12v trigger post when the switch is closed. The 500 amp isolator that I'm looking at is simply a large relay - the trigger posts are connected to ground and to a 12v signal that's hot when the vehicle is running, and the secondary side of the relay connects the positive terminals of the two batteries. Many smaller battery isolators have such a reset switch or terminal built-in, but larger 500 amp isolators don't appear to have this function. I would also, however, like to be able to override the behavior of the isolator with a manual switch (e.g., to connect the batteries when necessary to use the auxiliary battery to assist in starting). So far so good, there are plenty of battery isolators to choose from. So I'd like to add a second battery to my car and have it isolated from the main battery when the alternator is not running.